Our first Christmas spent in Paris was as magical as you’d expect. This is one time of year when Parisians go all out with festive decorations and thousands of lights adorn the city. The pre-Christmas anticipation is enhanced by boulangeries disguised as igloos or log cabins offering their deliciously flaky ‘galette des rois’, and the famous wooden huts of the various Christmas markets selling ‘vin chaud’ and roasted chestnuts. Presents are beautifully wrapped by each store (saving you the hassle), there are special ‘boutiques’ in the department stores displaying unique (and expensive) gifts, the shop windows are virtual, moving works of art, usually too crowded to even get a glimpse.
Despite the bomb scare in Printemps department store the week before Christmas, we moved through the festive motions with anticipatory glee. No planes or trains to catch made the pre-Christmas preparations much easier and we were able to enjoy the children’s holiday show ’80 Minutes Round The World’. We were very proud to see Sam’s version of the French Can Can produced the highest and most energetic kicks, (and relieved he didn’t hurt himself!), and Ruby’s African ‘Jamba’ dance was a hoot.
Visiting St. Sulpice and the Christmas market outside the church definitely got us in the spirit. Inside the church was a beautiful ‘creche’ depicting scenes of Bethlehem which had the children mesmerized. Lighting a candle for Esme the kids say something a bit different each time, and this time Sam wished for Santa to give her a present too up in heaven too, does his sleigh fly all the way up there? Choking back tears Ruby then asked me if the angels were Jesus’ fairies and I could only shake my head yes, and why not. Then Sam’s detailed questions about the gory aspects of the crucifixion had me positively reeling, yet their genuineness was more than touching. It was time for a very strong vin chaud at the market!
Christmas Eve was nearly perfect by accident. A gorgeous sunny day, we decided to brave the ice rink in front of Hotel de Ville, and seeing Tom on ice skates made my day. As Ruby pushed her big plastic penguin around the rink, Tom used Sam as his penguin support, holding on to his shoulders for dear life, nearly causing both of them to go sprawling, truly hilarious, and caught on video tape.
As with everything in Paris it was very well organised which made the potentially painful experience surprisingly pleasurable, complete with disco balls in the changing rooms, and glittering lights over the whole of Hotel de Ville, everything with a touch of glamour!
After a simple family lunch at a brasserie we walked over Pont D’Arcole to Notre Dame which was just beginning to glow as the sun set. Heaving with people we braved the crowds to attempt to attend the Holy Mass for Families. Inside there was a small nativity scene which was nearly impossible to get to so we settled for the illuminated panels high on the wall which portrayed the Christmas story with different pictures, lit up like Lite Brite.
We took some seats as the choir began to sing and the procession of the crosses started. Though it felt very special to be in such a place on Christmas Eve, Sam did not see it quite the same way and proceeded to flop across the chairs in stubborn defiance. I knew this church experience was not going to hold quite the same magic as St. Sulpice, the demons of fever and sore throat were taking over, so we hopped in a cab home to watch Shrek the Halls and eat popcorn.
The rest of the Christmas season was joyously celebrated with friends and included watching a lot of films, playing a lot of games, eating a lot of clementines to battle our flu-ridden house, and having a lot of lie-ins. Though we all missed our extended families it was also nice to stay put for once, and though it was a nice being in Paris for Christmas, we now wish all the tourists would go home!!
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