Tuesday, 3 February 2009

Not Just the Pavement is Icy in Paris....


Paris is not the greatest place to be at the moment. With slushy streets, grey skies and wet snow covering the city like a soaked carpet instead of a light blanket, not many people are smiling.

In fact, some of them are downright nasty as we all compete for space on the morning commute, squeezing themselves on cramped trains to the point of explosion because waiting two minutes for the next one is unthinkable.

As in most cities not used to snow, everything collapses in a sludgy heap; buses don’t run and everyone takes to the metro, even if it’s just for one stop. Walking a few blocks in a whirlwind of snowflakes is obviously unreasonable. Bad weather brings out the worst in people, with rudeness at an all time high at the most depressing time of the year.

Having grown up in snow and slush of all varieties and temperatures, I find it amusing to see how some Europeans cope with it, especially the French. They are determined to remain fashionable, and I try to stifle giggles as I see women attempting to run in ridiculous kitten heels, clutching umbrellas so their suede coats don’t get sodden with the heavy snow. Angora hats rest on their heads instead of a practical parka with hood as they skid around like Bambi on the pavement with shouts of ‘Merde’ and ‘Oh-pa-la’, so nearly going ass-over-tit. I almost wish it was warm enough to sit outside with a coffee to watch this entertaining side show, and though I may not look as chic in my brown, puffy coat and fleece lined boots, I am far warmer and steadier than these French gazelles.

The French men are just as amusing, attempting to brush snow off their car in pathetic flicks with leather-gloved hands (cashmere-lined I’m sure). Walking around the city huddled behind pink wool scarves, at least their shoes are more sensible, and shiny enough to match the slippery ice.

With one uncivil encounter after another, my usual tolerant self is on the verge of exploding as well, probably on some poor, innocent froggy who accidentally bumps into me on the bus. He will suffer my wrath after so many of his compatriots have dealt me heavy blows - pay it forward as they say.

After being severely reprimanded for handing my children one Smartie each at the Musee D’Orsay yesterday, near child-abuse accusations bringing Ruby on the packed metro this morning because our bus wasn’t running, ruder than usual waiters in the cafe, and a hard shove from a French cow with her rat of a dog (wearing a ridiculous green barber coat I hasten to add), causing me to knock Ruby over on to the pavement....'Assez' I say!

I have to ask, is this all really necessary? Yes, it’s a bit grey and damp and cold, yes we’re in an economic crisis because we’ve all been greedy buggers, yes the sales are nearly over and only crap items remain, but do we really have to be that discourteous to each other as we all struggle to get through these difficult days side by cramped side? Ok, so France has a short, casanova, smurf-like leader and America has Obama, but that doesn’t give Parisians the license to take out their frustrations on each other and helpless expatriates.

Thank goodness for children to lighten things up a bit:

Outside Ruby’s school on Rue St. Dominique, a homeless and legless man sits outside the grocery store with his paper cup held out. With so much begging in this city the kids are almost immune to it, but obviously the wheelchair and no legs combination cause her to stare. “How strange it would be to have no legs mommy,” Ruby says as we walk by. “Yes, we are very lucky to have our legs,” I reply.

Five minutes later we encounter another wheelchair on the same street, but this time a woman is in it, and she has only one leg. I look at Ruby’s face staring once again in wonderment and pray she doesn’t say anything until we are safely past. “That woman only has one leg mommy,” comes the obvious remark, followed by the analysis; “So, some people have two legs, some people have one leg, and some people have no legs!” “Yes, that’s true,” I say, silently begging her not to ask me why.

A few days later we see a man in a wheelchair again, but this time with both legs intact. Ruby is confused, and says loudly within hearing distance, “Why is HE in a wheelchair mommy, he has TWO legs?”

I’m not sure if the novelty of Paris is starting to wear off, or just of city living in general, but I find myself, as most people, dreaming of an isolated island, white beach, warm sun; a world with no beggars and no French cows, um, I mean women, and ridiculously looking French dogs.

If ya can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em, in the rudeness stakes that is. For I am staying firmly in my sensible Canuck attire, fashion faux pas or not.

Thursday, 15 January 2009

Lights on The Champs Elysee

A Parisian Christmas


Our first Christmas spent in Paris was as magical as you’d expect. This is one time of year when Parisians go all out with festive decorations and thousands of lights adorn the city. The pre-Christmas anticipation is enhanced by boulangeries disguised as igloos or log cabins offering their deliciously flaky ‘galette des rois’, and the famous wooden huts of the various Christmas markets selling ‘vin chaud’ and roasted chestnuts. Presents are beautifully wrapped by each store (saving you the hassle), there are special ‘boutiques’ in the department stores displaying unique (and expensive) gifts, the shop windows are virtual, moving works of art, usually too crowded to even get a glimpse.

Despite the bomb scare in Printemps department store the week before Christmas, we moved through the festive motions with anticipatory glee. No planes or trains to catch made the pre-Christmas preparations much easier and we were able to enjoy the children’s holiday show ’80 Minutes Round The World’. We were very proud to see Sam’s version of the French Can Can produced the highest and most energetic kicks, (and relieved he didn’t hurt himself!), and Ruby’s African ‘Jamba’ dance was a hoot.

Visiting St. Sulpice and the Christmas market outside the church definitely got us in the spirit. Inside the church was a beautiful ‘creche’ depicting scenes of Bethlehem which had the children mesmerized. Lighting a candle for Esme the kids say something a bit different each time, and this time Sam wished for Santa to give her a present too up in heaven too, does his sleigh fly all the way up there? Choking back tears Ruby then asked me if the angels were Jesus’ fairies and I could only shake my head yes, and why not. Then Sam’s detailed questions about the gory aspects of the crucifixion had me positively reeling, yet their genuineness was more than touching. It was time for a very strong vin chaud at the market!

Christmas Eve was nearly perfect by accident. A gorgeous sunny day, we decided to brave the ice rink in front of Hotel de Ville, and seeing Tom on ice skates made my day. As Ruby pushed her big plastic penguin around the rink, Tom used Sam as his penguin support, holding on to his shoulders for dear life, nearly causing both of them to go sprawling, truly hilarious, and caught on video tape.

As with everything in Paris it was very well organised which made the potentially painful experience surprisingly pleasurable, complete with disco balls in the changing rooms, and glittering lights over the whole of Hotel de Ville, everything with a touch of glamour!

After a simple family lunch at a brasserie we walked over Pont D’Arcole to Notre Dame which was just beginning to glow as the sun set. Heaving with people we braved the crowds to attempt to attend the Holy Mass for Families. Inside there was a small nativity scene which was nearly impossible to get to so we settled for the illuminated panels high on the wall which portrayed the Christmas story with different pictures, lit up like Lite Brite.

We took some seats as the choir began to sing and the procession of the crosses started. Though it felt very special to be in such a place on Christmas Eve, Sam did not see it quite the same way and proceeded to flop across the chairs in stubborn defiance. I knew this church experience was not going to hold quite the same magic as St. Sulpice, the demons of fever and sore throat were taking over, so we hopped in a cab home to watch Shrek the Halls and eat popcorn.

The rest of the Christmas season was joyously celebrated with friends and included watching a lot of films, playing a lot of games, eating a lot of clementines to battle our flu-ridden house, and having a lot of lie-ins. Though we all missed our extended families it was also nice to stay put for once, and though it was a nice being in Paris for Christmas, we now wish all the tourists would go home!!

Monday, 6 October 2008

White Night Washout


The most illuminating cultural night of the year in Paris went by in a flash of light and colour, literally. Introduced seven years ago by Paris’s Deputy Mayor Christophe Girard, his aim was to create one artistic night annually, merging contemporary art with urban space. This year’s nocturnal festivities offered an array of events to choose from, in quantity and quality, to discover the mysteries and magic of the City of Light, at night.

This is Paris at its most artsy, and most baffling. For once she promised more than she delivered, offering too much in a short space of time within a realm of perplexing displays across the city. Puzzling projective expositions on historical monuments, museum gardens mysteriously glowing in light and mist, combined with colourful light presentations to music, all gave a different perspective of the city, but without clarity. It was a curious medley of international artists offering individual concepts of their own ‘Nuit Blanche’ but not letting us in on their secret.

The exposition ‘Going Through Walls’ at the Musee Carnavalet by Latvian artist Gints Gabran, promised a spooky feel with its theme of shadows and fog to produce a ‘thick screen of air’ enhanced by water sounds and the stillness of the night. Walking through this virtual misty doorway was quite fun, for all of three seconds it took, at which point you were ushered towards the exit.

Far more lucid was Henri Foucault’s light spectacle at Hotel Des Monnaies. Reminiscent of Paris’s dirty younger sister, Amsterdam and its Red Light District, the artist had each window lit up in a different color which changed to the tempo of the music, simple but effective.

Described by one writer as ‘New Year’s Eve with art’, 2008’s Nuit Blanche definitely needed some fireworks, or at least a few lanterns around the Louvre. Each year is different, and compared to last year’s magnificent light display at the pyramid and the spectacularly creepy exhibit at the house of Victor Hugo, which took you ‘on a strange journey between cloud, busts, and snakes’, this year’s White Night was missing something. With comparatively less on offer than in previous years, the expositions needed to be potent and enticing for the regular goer, yet instantly impressive for the Nuit Blanche virgins who attended.

Each person will have encountered a different White Night depending on the area chosen and time allowed. Those making the most of its sunset to sunrise agenda may have felt more satisfied, but those only able to have a taste of the unusual offerings may have been disappointed.

The one thing that all revelers would have had in common however, was the witnessing of the glorious City of Light bathed in a little more light and music than usual, and it’s a great excuse to go out and stay out late, to experience the wonderful if bewildering world that is French culture.

Thursday, 25 September 2008

The Pope & Margaritaville



The Pope came and went on a beautiful sunny Saturday, and as usual Paris performed to its highest standards for her glorified guest, seamlessly erecting then dismantling the stage and huge seating area in record time, most importantly in time for rugby to recommence on Sunday morning. Over 200,000 people attended the event in attempt to catch a glimpse of his holiness, whilst Tom jogs right past him and his entourage on the way to the service when on his morning run....figures.

The night before the service there was a candlelit procession from Notre Dame to Invalides, anticipating the Pope’s route the next morning, with many people camping out all night at Invalides just to get a spot. With my Catholic roots I felt guilty for not taking part somehow. Attending these huge events in the city you’re living in should be an simple feat, but you would be surprised how easy it is to still miss these attractions on your doorstep. It seems criminal but it just happens.

On the other hand, there are certain things NOT to be missed, such as the World Cup Rugby tournament last year, and for me recently, the Jimmy Buffet concert at the New Morning Club last weekend! A surprise invitation from a journalist friend who is good friends with Jimmy, I jumped at the chance to singalong to ‘Margaritaville’, and knew I had to go just to tell my sister Gail about it. A bit before my time, (she was more of his fan than me), I still grew up listening to his music and knew watching any American/English musician in Paris would be a treat because the venues are smaller and more intimate.

Sure enough it met all my expectations. Set in the heart of the African 10th district, the New Morning Club is famous for jazz musicians and African bands, but has also hosted even the likes of Prince. Chock full of chubby, ageing Americans in cheesy holiday shirts clutching their plastic cups of beer, swaying and singing to the music, it was a jolly and eclectic atmosphere with fans from all over the world, including Australia, Norway, and Abu Dhabi.

Always with a holiday flavor due to the subject of most of his songs, Jimmy played the laid-back host very well with a strong edge of professionalism aided by his loyal band and varied back up singers, one black lady called Nadirah Shakoor who used to sing for Arrested Development and now is coming out with her own album, and the lovely Tina from Los Angeles who just couldn’t stop grooving to the music. Visibly affected by that evening’s crowd, Jimmy promised to play until his bottle of rose was finished, and admitted he would always remember this night. He ended his encore with a solo rendition of ‘He Went to Paris’ which brought tears to many eyes. Always the Mississippi gentleman, he signed many autographs and t-shirts after the show, and even an inflatable monkey!

We had the great luck of being invited to the aftershow dinner at L’Avenue on ritzy Avenue Montaigne, just down the road from the famous Plaza Athenee where the Paris episodes of Sex and the City were filmed. Feeling very humble and out of place we show up and are invited to sit and eat with the band. Jimmy comes over to chat and I am speechless. The obvious tag a long, I do not want to come across as starstruck fan and ask for autographs or pictures, so I just stand there grinning stupidly and say ‘Great show!’

We meet the rest of the band and they are more than gracious, even happy to have new people to talk to after their gig. We meet the Mayer brothers, one of whom makes children’s music and promises to send our kids some of his CD’s (www.unclejimrocks.com). I am looking forward to hearing his songs called ‘Funky as a Diaper’ and ‘I’ve got a Butt’.

For any Buffet fans here is the link to view the interview my friend Matt did with Jimmy riding bicycles around Paris:

http://blogs.iht.com/tribtalk/travel/globespotters/?p=546

Monday, 8 September 2008

La Rentree


How quickly autumn overcomes the summer, before we are ready for it. All of a sudden the air turns crisp, and so do the leaves under your feet, and you feel chilly and silly wearing your summer dresses. It does not stop us from hoping for an Indian summer in September, therefore those dresses are not being packed away just yet, and I refuse to wear boots in any shape or form.

We have much to look forward to in Paris in September. The city comes alive after being abandoned for weeks in the summer, and though heaving it is somehow comforting to be once more full of Parisiennes. We are relieved to have our favorite boulangerie open again, and to see our resident homeless lady has returned to her favorite dwelling in the metro, although I don't expect she went anywhere for her vacation. Paris just doesn't do ghost town very well, and the constant flow of tourists are no match for its temporarily removed inhabitants.

The most exciting and current event to happen is the Pope’s visit next weekend. Not us personally, though he would be welcome, but he is coming to Paris on the 12 and 13th September to greet the French, on his first 'Tour de France'. Not sure where else he is on tour, but I have no doubt we'll be caught up in the festivities surrounding him as they are already setting up stands around Invalides, preparing for his arrival. My delusional husband thought perhaps his rugby fan club had gone to the massive effort to watch his team in action on the fields directly across from Invalides where they play every Sunday, until I informed him of the celebrity visitor. Over 200,000 people are expected to attend mass on Sunday, but we think we may just watch it on telly.

Also on its way is Paris Fashion Week. I've marvelled at this event for the past two years, purely as an outsider, not being brave or glamourous enough to ever attempt to get into one of these shows, the coward I am watches from afar, either outside the Louvre or underneath in the Carrousel, seeing all the pin thin models make their way in, followed by the fashionable spectators, digging for a glimpse of someone famous. This year will render more of the same I am sure, maybe I will venture even closer and get a toe in the door, to see the male models at least.

As always there are interesting expositions in all the major museums; Le Bon Marche has devoted almost one entire floor to ‘Buenos Aires’ where there are portraits of the local people surrounding a huge balloon like globe showing footage of dance, life and culture in the city. They are hosting salsa dancing every Thursday night as well, a nice little aside to late night shopping amongst the designer names, just pop upstairs for a dance with a handsome stranger in a major department store....as you do.

Only in Paris.....

Wednesday, 3 September 2008

Princess Grace Kelly



I went to the Grace Kelly exhibition at Hotel de Ville recently and was amazed by the seeming perfectionism this woman oozed. An Oscar winning actress who gives up her acting career to marry a Prince and turns into a ball hosting, poetry reading, dried flower art making, virtual saint of a mother of three. Looking at bits of her life encased in glass made it all surreal somehow, like she was a phantom Princess, with her gold oscar and white wedding dress floating on display, her ghostly presence visible in the background with grainy black and white clips from her movies, untouchable and unreal. Apart from her tragic and too early death, her life was perfect, so it seems. Surrounded by rich and famous friends, adored by a Prince and her children, she embodied all the roles of women endeavor to, rolled into one. Something just doesn’t seem right....

Then we discover she was not always ‘perfect’, as she engaged in an affair with a married man before she married Prince Rainier. Her father was blatantly against this, as his personal letters to her were encased in glass in the exhibit, open for all to read. Joking with my friend about this whilst reading the letters, an older French lady joins in our conversation. ‘Oh yes, he was having an affair with her”, she said, almost proudly confirming this man’s infidelity and then defending it with a quip that, to the French it just doesn’t matter....’zit is zee Franche waaay...’