French progress - Finally having some daily chit chat with the Parisians is very satisfying. I don’t always understand everything, but catch just enough to respond with a ‘Pour quoi?’ or ‘Bien sur!’ Although customer service in most shops is appalling (usually from the women), the male ‘vendeurs’ are more friendly and forgiving of your bad French, a real treat to chat with. They may be fromagers, bouchers, or poissonniers, but they all have a passion and respect for food and take great care in helping you choose your product with helpful advice on how to store it and cook it. I love this banter with them, get a thrill of understanding a few words and being able to reply simply but correctly. They seem to appreciate the effort being made, and the ‘Bonjournee Madame’ makes my day.
Loving Ruby’s interpretation of the language at the moment. A lot of ‘Mommy, know what so-and-so is in French? It’s…..basically the English word with a long ‘aaaah’ on the end, for example chocolate is ‘choclaaaa’. Then when she comes out with her ‘oh la la’s, and ‘voila’s’ I can’t help but crack up. The other day she lost a ticket for the carousel as we were messing about on the bed, then a few minutes later I hear her say, ‘Ah, voila!’ as she pulled the ticket out of her knickers. A right little madame she’s turning into, or ‘mademoiselle’ should I say.
Sam’s accent has surpassed both Tom and mine’s in accuracy, he can spit out his French ‘r’s’ with more authenticity than we’ll ever have, and often corrects us when we don’t do it properly.
Sunday, 25 March 2007
Friday, 23 March 2007
The Charm of The Champs Elysee

Tom and I have decided to make a concerted effort to get a babysitter every Saturday night and go out. What’s the point of living in Paris if you stay in your flat watching Jack Bauer every night (much as we love him)? Our latest escapade was to the Champs Elysee area for dinner and drinks.
The Champs Elysee is always entertaining. As touristy as the street is, I love everything about it. You have designer shops such as Louis Vitton’s empire with the most amazing window displays, massive Virgin Megastore to spend hours in, a huge Renault dealership with racing cars in the window. The choice of cafes and restaurants are endless, all at a ridiculous price. It is, of course, the ultimate street to people watch, so paying up to 7.50 euros for a coffee almost makes it worth it, to savour the coffee and watch the array of bouffant hair and huge sunglasses walk by, usually accompanied by a lot of fur either on themselves or walking beside them. There’s also quite a lot of filming going on, I walked right into what looked like a filming of a commercial, with a cheesy looking French couple singing a song and twirling around a lamppost. I tried very hard to stay in the background maybe appear as an ‘extra’ but was told almost politely to ‘get lost’ in French. Sadly, still no Olivier to be seen L.
One very cool place right at the end of Champs Elysee near the Arc de Triomphe is called ‘Drugstore Republic’. It’s open 24 hours and is a very trendy food/epicerie shop combined with funky gifts, jewellery, books, magazines, boulangerie, pharmacy (of course). Also inside is a brasserie which turns into a late night hotspot. I’ve been there for coffee in the morning in the conservatory with an Arc view, and around the bar at night sipping cocktails, always fun place to be.
A waitress told us there is a restaurant in Paris called 'Dans le Noir' where you eat completely in the dark and are served by the blind. You choose your meal before you go inside, then are seated in complete blackness and served delicious food and wine, left to savour the true taste of the food without all the other distractions. Sounds like quite the experience.
The Champs Elysee is always entertaining. As touristy as the street is, I love everything about it. You have designer shops such as Louis Vitton’s empire with the most amazing window displays, massive Virgin Megastore to spend hours in, a huge Renault dealership with racing cars in the window. The choice of cafes and restaurants are endless, all at a ridiculous price. It is, of course, the ultimate street to people watch, so paying up to 7.50 euros for a coffee almost makes it worth it, to savour the coffee and watch the array of bouffant hair and huge sunglasses walk by, usually accompanied by a lot of fur either on themselves or walking beside them. There’s also quite a lot of filming going on, I walked right into what looked like a filming of a commercial, with a cheesy looking French couple singing a song and twirling around a lamppost. I tried very hard to stay in the background maybe appear as an ‘extra’ but was told almost politely to ‘get lost’ in French. Sadly, still no Olivier to be seen L.
One very cool place right at the end of Champs Elysee near the Arc de Triomphe is called ‘Drugstore Republic’. It’s open 24 hours and is a very trendy food/epicerie shop combined with funky gifts, jewellery, books, magazines, boulangerie, pharmacy (of course). Also inside is a brasserie which turns into a late night hotspot. I’ve been there for coffee in the morning in the conservatory with an Arc view, and around the bar at night sipping cocktails, always fun place to be.
A waitress told us there is a restaurant in Paris called 'Dans le Noir' where you eat completely in the dark and are served by the blind. You choose your meal before you go inside, then are seated in complete blackness and served delicious food and wine, left to savour the true taste of the food without all the other distractions. Sounds like quite the experience.
Saturday, 10 March 2007
Fashion, Celebrities, and Champagne by the Pool...
Surreal moment today in the Louvre; we were caught in a rainy windstorm at the Tuileries and had to go inside so made our way to the underground Carousel to have our picnic. We sat down on some steps and noticed there was a ‘Semaine de Mode’ (Week of Fashion) in one of the ‘Salles’ that many people were queuing up for, and the big screen outside showed a live fashion show. Of course I couldn’t stop people watching, the almost glamorous wannabe’s in the queue and then the beautiful models coming out of it the show was enough to keep me enthralled. As I sat there with the kids eating peanut butter and jam sandwiches I watched these people come and go, most of them unbearably trendy and impossibly cool. I pondered how different life is for some people. Some of them looked at me strangely, as if a mother sitting there with 2 children having an indoor picnic was akin to aliens landing on the Louvre, some looked at me with a hint of sympathy perhaps, whilst others looked at the children in wonderment, possibly at their blonde, blue-eyed beauty and innocence in such a glamorous, sophisticated adult environment. I imagined myself in this world for a moment, teetering on high heels, wearing the latest fashion trend complete with Chanel sunglasses on my head and matching bag, standing in the queue looking important, wondering if I’ll have the foie gras or moules for lunch at The Fashion CafĂ©, when Sam wakes me from my dream with, ‘Mommy, I can burp ‘au revoir’ in French…’ and proceeds to prove it to the delight of the onlookers.
Latest piscine episode – we finally found a decent pool at the bottom of the Montparnasse Tower. As I was waiting for Tom and the kids to come out, a man that worked there started chatting to me in French. We managed to have a half decent conversation, some of which I feigned comprehension. when he asks me, ‘Tu aime champagne?’ Oui, bien sur, I said, so out he comes with a cup of fizz, soon followed by Tom and the kids who were quite surprised to see me starting my weekend alcoholic binge so early, and at the swimming pool of all places! Again, only in Paris!
Our first trip to Bois de Bolougne with our bikes and rollerblades was eventful as every family outing in Paris seems to be! We punched in the name of a road near the Bolougne, and Fay (SatNav) took us the scenic route, which led us to one of the most dreaded roundabouts in the world. As Fay politely announced for us to ‘take the 10th exit’, Tom looked at me in horror and there loomed before us the glorious Arc, and about a thousand cars whizzing around it. At the point of no return, he went for it and somehow made the right exit and drove away unscathed. Sam now thinks his daddy is a true hero.
Celebrity spotting – well, not really, but I was told that Brad and Angelina had a flat in the 15th arrondissement, they’re pictures taken in OK magazine were taken at our local Square Lambert, my weekend running haunt! Also, Olivier Martinez apparently has a flat in the Left Bank, and with recently breaking up with Kylie I may have to hunt him down and do some proper stalking….watch this space!
We’ve survived our first 6 months in Paris. Thank you to everyone for putting up with my whinging, my stories, and my basketcase rants. Things can only get better and easier from now on in, so hopefully the rants will become less and more cultured, sophisticated diary entries will follow, such as our weekly family museum visits, Ruby and Sam’s French elocution lessons, and Sunday lunches with the Pitt Family.
Latest piscine episode – we finally found a decent pool at the bottom of the Montparnasse Tower. As I was waiting for Tom and the kids to come out, a man that worked there started chatting to me in French. We managed to have a half decent conversation, some of which I feigned comprehension. when he asks me, ‘Tu aime champagne?’ Oui, bien sur, I said, so out he comes with a cup of fizz, soon followed by Tom and the kids who were quite surprised to see me starting my weekend alcoholic binge so early, and at the swimming pool of all places! Again, only in Paris!
Our first trip to Bois de Bolougne with our bikes and rollerblades was eventful as every family outing in Paris seems to be! We punched in the name of a road near the Bolougne, and Fay (SatNav) took us the scenic route, which led us to one of the most dreaded roundabouts in the world. As Fay politely announced for us to ‘take the 10th exit’, Tom looked at me in horror and there loomed before us the glorious Arc, and about a thousand cars whizzing around it. At the point of no return, he went for it and somehow made the right exit and drove away unscathed. Sam now thinks his daddy is a true hero.
Celebrity spotting – well, not really, but I was told that Brad and Angelina had a flat in the 15th arrondissement, they’re pictures taken in OK magazine were taken at our local Square Lambert, my weekend running haunt! Also, Olivier Martinez apparently has a flat in the Left Bank, and with recently breaking up with Kylie I may have to hunt him down and do some proper stalking….watch this space!
We’ve survived our first 6 months in Paris. Thank you to everyone for putting up with my whinging, my stories, and my basketcase rants. Things can only get better and easier from now on in, so hopefully the rants will become less and more cultured, sophisticated diary entries will follow, such as our weekly family museum visits, Ruby and Sam’s French elocution lessons, and Sunday lunches with the Pitt Family.
Thursday, 1 March 2007
Herpes & Half Term
Just returned from a fantastic week away in the Charente area. We stayed in a town called, wait for this…..Herpes!! Very unfortunate name, but a sweet small village with nothing in it bar a ‘fontaine d’Herpes’ (which was basically an old well) and the cutest donkeys ever, even white ones which I’d never seen before. There was, however, a stunning chateau in the next village which Ruby was convinced Sleeping Beauty lives in, so we enjoyed walking around that. It was a great week of girly giggles, beaucoup de champagne, sloe gin, and pineau (the local drink), daily visits from the friendly ghost in the big farmhouse, lots of jigging to Justin Timberlake, gruelling Table Tennis & Boule competitions, and of course the infamous Shark Bingo games which Ruby is the all time champion. We were a bit disappointed not being able to use the stunning pool and patio area, although us girls made our own ‘sunroom’ of sorts to get a bit of a tan.
So, apart from Herpes, we visited La Rochelle and Cognac, both quaint places in their own ways. We look forward to our next trip to the Loire Valley in May when we visit our (rented) vineyard in the village of Sancerre. Well, it’s actually only a row of vines, but we get to buy 4 cases of Sancerre at a very discounted rate, hopefully they’ll last us through the summer!
Struggling through this 2nd week of half term. Keeping the kids busy in the rain when I’m detoxing isn’t much fun, I feel like I’m shouting at them constantly. Mostly it’s when we’re out in public and I’m with them on my own in all the ‘danger zones’ whilst they’re still in fairy la la land. Keeping them safe is hard work. Also, the weather’s very unpredictable so we’ve been caught in it a few times. As the few friends we have here have jetted off to South Africa, or Austria, or Courcheval, we only have the memories of Herpes to get us through til school starts next week (and there were more than enough laughs to do that – berets, moustaches, and naked bottoms behind French aprons, that’s all I’m going to say!)
So, apart from Herpes, we visited La Rochelle and Cognac, both quaint places in their own ways. We look forward to our next trip to the Loire Valley in May when we visit our (rented) vineyard in the village of Sancerre. Well, it’s actually only a row of vines, but we get to buy 4 cases of Sancerre at a very discounted rate, hopefully they’ll last us through the summer!
Struggling through this 2nd week of half term. Keeping the kids busy in the rain when I’m detoxing isn’t much fun, I feel like I’m shouting at them constantly. Mostly it’s when we’re out in public and I’m with them on my own in all the ‘danger zones’ whilst they’re still in fairy la la land. Keeping them safe is hard work. Also, the weather’s very unpredictable so we’ve been caught in it a few times. As the few friends we have here have jetted off to South Africa, or Austria, or Courcheval, we only have the memories of Herpes to get us through til school starts next week (and there were more than enough laughs to do that – berets, moustaches, and naked bottoms behind French aprons, that’s all I’m going to say!)
Friday, 2 February 2007
This is a funny story told to me by a friend who lives on a very expensive street near the Eiffel Tower, so picturesque it is often used for filming. In the gorgeous building next to her there’s a new tenant, ‘Bongo from the Congo’ her husband tells her. In reality it is the President of the Republic of Congo and his last name is Bongo!!! Apparently the Sultan hosts the most amazing parties with rows of Bentleys and Mercedes double parked outside and throngs of woman coming and going, hmm, maybe we’ll change neighbourhoods!
After leaving the amazing Cineaqua Aquarium in Trocadero today we have a bit of a trek home with two metro changes. Ruby promptly falls asleep wearing her green fish sunglasses and I am left carrying her up and down flights of stairs avec school bags, etc.. Out of 6 flights 1 person helped me, which I think is probably about the correct statistic over here. There is one dog for every 6 people, and one helpful human out of every 6 Parisians!
Cineaqua however is an unbelievably chic aquarium. A combined cinema and aquarium there is one huge central tank surrounded by 3 different cinema screens and one bar area where you can sip champagne whilst listening to live singing and piano, either watching the screen or the amazing wall of water in front of you. Again, only in Paris!!
Stay tuned for the latest in ‘As The World of Paris Turns’. Will Bongo finally get bonked? Will the bruises on Tom’s bottom disappear if he finally masters the art of blading? Will Tracey buckle under the pressure and get le petit chien accessory for her handbag?
After leaving the amazing Cineaqua Aquarium in Trocadero today we have a bit of a trek home with two metro changes. Ruby promptly falls asleep wearing her green fish sunglasses and I am left carrying her up and down flights of stairs avec school bags, etc.. Out of 6 flights 1 person helped me, which I think is probably about the correct statistic over here. There is one dog for every 6 people, and one helpful human out of every 6 Parisians!
Cineaqua however is an unbelievably chic aquarium. A combined cinema and aquarium there is one huge central tank surrounded by 3 different cinema screens and one bar area where you can sip champagne whilst listening to live singing and piano, either watching the screen or the amazing wall of water in front of you. Again, only in Paris!!
Stay tuned for the latest in ‘As The World of Paris Turns’. Will Bongo finally get bonked? Will the bruises on Tom’s bottom disappear if he finally masters the art of blading? Will Tracey buckle under the pressure and get le petit chien accessory for her handbag?
Wednesday, 24 January 2007
Moulin Rouge, Montmartre, and Monceau

For my birthday we went to see the ‘Feerie’ show at Moulin Rouge in the evening, finally!!! It was a great spectacle despite the cheesy glitz. The flashy costumes, boobs and cheeks on show were enough to keep Tom enthralled for 2 hours, never seen him so quietly fixated on a rugby game as he was there. Personally I thought the dancing was mediocre and the interval acts stole the show; acrobats balancing horizontally head to head and an amazing juggler who juggled with his throat! What a life those girls must have. Needless to say, Tom’s mouth was ajar the whole time, had to pick his jaw up the floor as we left.
Sunday not so successful with tantrums from both children and parents and then hastened by cold wet weather. We went off to Parc Monceau in the 8th, a small version of Stourhead with hundreds of runners and a playground. Beautiful people in beautiful surroundings, everywhere you go in Paris, do they always have to be so perfectly turned out with perfectly behaved children?? Just imagining all the effort they go to everyday to make themselves and their children look so stunning wears me out.
Sunday not so successful with tantrums from both children and parents and then hastened by cold wet weather. We went off to Parc Monceau in the 8th, a small version of Stourhead with hundreds of runners and a playground. Beautiful people in beautiful surroundings, everywhere you go in Paris, do they always have to be so perfectly turned out with perfectly behaved children?? Just imagining all the effort they go to everyday to make themselves and their children look so stunning wears me out.
Attempt to go up to Montmartre after the Parc which was a big mistake. The vernacular was broken down so Tom lifted Ruby asleep in her pram hundreds of stairs up to Sacre Coeur, once we got up there, there was a barrage of black men almost barricading the streets trying to sell you things. One man was quite abusive, going for all the young girls by grabbing their arms and not taking NO for an answer. It was very disturbing until a whistle blew and a security guard approached him. Once we got to the top we all needed to warm up and had the most atrociously expensive hot chocolates in the square whilst watching the artists, when the sugar hit caused Sam to go into hyper mode amongst the tourist couples trying to have a quiet coffee. Then the weather turned, easels went flying and it was time for the 10 minute trek in the rain to the bus for our 45 minute journey home to be snivelled at even more by its passengers because our children were chatting happily on the bus, how dare there be happy children for they should be seen looking pretty and not heard in this city.
Labels:
Montmartre,
Moulin Rouge,
Parc Monceau,
Sacre Coeur
Saturday, 20 January 2007
Bonne Annee!!
After a great trip home for the holidays, we have returned to Paris with some trepidation to what it will bring us in 2007. We were pleasantly surprised and relieved to have the kids quite happy to come back, and after a hellish first day back to school they’ve adapted again quite quickly.
New Year and all that so we’ve decided to take up a new family sport – rollerblading. Took Tom some convincing but he bought a pair too and off we went to the Tuileries for a practise skate. It was quite a sight – Sam in his new shark goggles and Ruby in pink ones riding their scooters around whilst their parents were stumbling along on their skates (well, one of us was gliding quite smoothly actually). The sight of Tom falling on his arse made it all worth it.
So nice to be back on the number 80 bus, as joyful as ever with Sam trying to suffocate Ruby in her pram en route or making eerie orca noises with his stuffed killer whale, to the so obvious un-delight of the Parisians. They really do need to lighten up.
New Year and all that so we’ve decided to take up a new family sport – rollerblading. Took Tom some convincing but he bought a pair too and off we went to the Tuileries for a practise skate. It was quite a sight – Sam in his new shark goggles and Ruby in pink ones riding their scooters around whilst their parents were stumbling along on their skates (well, one of us was gliding quite smoothly actually). The sight of Tom falling on his arse made it all worth it.
So nice to be back on the number 80 bus, as joyful as ever with Sam trying to suffocate Ruby in her pram en route or making eerie orca noises with his stuffed killer whale, to the so obvious un-delight of the Parisians. They really do need to lighten up.
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